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Automotive Photography and Graphic Arts
The selections of text below are excerpts from the soon to be released Ebook titled Automotive Photography and Graphic Arts by Anthony Palmieri.
1. Introduction:
If you have just picked up a camera for the first time, or have been taking pictures for years, the information contained in this guide will ensure that you do not overlook anything as you frame and shoot that picture.
Taking your photographs to the next level, by using a few
computer tools, no special filters, and free clip art, we will walk you through the steps to create a picture like the one on the cover of this book as easy as 1-2-3.
When displaying your vehicle at a show, enthusiasts like yourself pay close attention to every detail down to the shine on the bolts to ensure that the automobile is perfect. The end quality of your pictures is dependent upon your attention to details. Whenever we take a photograph for a client and create their unique art we do exactly the same. Starting with the right photograph is key and we will provide some often overlooked aspects of automotive photography. Remember that you must start with the right photograph in order to obtain good and even great results
2. Digital Photography Basics For
Automobiles:
There are two assumptions made here. The first is, that you are interested in color photography and the second is that you have read your camera owners manual and understand the features and capabilities at least at a basic level. With that said the intent of this guide is to help you get started with taking photographs and getting the best possible results. Before we continue, there is one thing often overlooked until it is too late that will ruin
a great photograph. Shut off the date and time stamp feature. You can be sure that it will always take away from the picture or be in the wrong place where no amount of editing can account for it.
The focus here is to start with the best of everything possible and use your camera to the fullest. This does not mean that you need to spend $2000 on a camera and special lenses, but it does mean taking advantage of the best capabilities your camera provides.
Even a $100 camera can create good small prints. After you understand your cameras feature menu and how to navigate it go back and re-read the picture quality section again. Once you understand that section set your camera to the BEST modes possible
2.3. Always Use The Flash- Well
Usually
No matter if you are using a standard film camera, or a digital camera you want to be sure that your camera ALWAYS uses the flash. The only possible exception to this would be for indoor photography where there are halogen or other obtrusive lighting that you may have to experiment with. To
force your camera to use the flash set your camera to "FORCE Flash" or "Fill Flash", not "AUTOMATIC Flash". This flash is often represented by a "lightening bolt" symbol. Automatic flash will determine if the flash goes off based upon the amount of light detected. When we tell you to use your flash in the sun, automatic flash will almost never turn on since it will think there is sufficient lighting. Using the flash helps to illuminate the shadowing areas, as well as minimizing any glare along with balancing the overall lighting. Force flash should be used for exterior shots, cockpit shots, and engine bay shots.
You compose and shoot that great engine bay shot and then realize when you are working with the photograph later that all you see if the top of the engine and nothing more. The flash will make the steering box, headers and other components stand out as well as enhance the top of the engine detail and make the colors stand out even more. The following examples show the difference with and without flash. In the first figure the image is rather washed out and with the blue not so blue and the red and other colors not all that brilliant.
2.7. Lens Filters and Shades
If you must take
photographs in bright sun, such as an outside car show, use a lens shade and force to overcome the harsh sun. The other alternative to use especially if your flash is not powerful enough flash is to use a polarizing filter instead of the flash. The polarizing filter is one of the most useful filters for outdoor photography and is a requirement for any serious photographer, especially for those that use a digital camera. A polarizing filter will reduce the glare and make colors stand out more in harsh sun conditions. These filters can significantly reduce white-outs or wash-outs (surfaces with the primary color all washed out) due to bright reflections. Some photograph flaws can be edited out and touched up, however, these flaws are nearly impossible to eliminate after the fact and make look natural.
A second important tool to have in your camera bag is a lens shade. A lens shade is inexpensive and is attached on the end of your lens to keep excess light from directly entering lens. It basically provides a tunnel that shields the optics (lens), and due to its black
color absorbs any bouncing light. This helps the camera to better detect the light levels of the subject.
3. The Photo Shoot - How Do We Work With
What We Have
Now that you have a general understanding of how to use your camera, lets focus on where, when, and how to get the optimum environment. There are some things in our control, and others that are not, and at any one time they can change. It is important that we discuss each
elements so you can decide what to do given your situation. These elements are lighting, the location, and the position of the automobile. If you are restricted to a specific time of day, then you many not have any control over the lighting, or do you. If you are photographing the vehicle at a show, you are probably limited to its position and location. Ideally you want the best lighting, optimum flexibility with positioning the vehicle. Lastly if you are going to remove the background from the final print, the cleanest background for editing is desirable. This section will help you take advantage of any flexibility and optimize your shoot given the environment.
3.1. Pick The Right Lighting
Given that we are focusing on color photography, proper lighting is essential. In fact proper lighting actually means LOTS OF LIGHT, and the correct type of light. Without proper lighting it is nearly impossible to have an award winning photograph, even one that has touched up with the best photo editing tools. When it comes to lighting you want to have an even distribution of light over the entire surface of the automobile. This light illuminates all areas, is not harsh or glaring and does not cause shadowing.
Sunlight that is at a low-angle such as at sun rise or sun set is often the best. This low-angle light covers the side surfaces with light. Sun light that is high in the sky such as that mid-day harsh sun must be avoided or you will have glaring reflections. This harsh light results in the top surfaces being washed out, and the lower areas being dark with excessive shadowing. The ultimate goal is low angle, soft, evenly distributed light that illuminates the entire vehicle.
Also remember to keep the sun behind you and watch out for your own shadow!
3.2. Picking The Location
The lighter color the ground surface the
better the lower area lighting will be and less lower body panel shadowing due to the upward reflected light. Parking the vehicle on a light colored concrete surface versus a dark asphalt surface has this is a major benefit as well as making the tire profiles stand out due to the black rubber from the lighter surface. This reflection will better illuminate the lower areas including the undercarriage and minimize shadows.
The intent for many of the photographs put into fantasy scenes is to remove the background and have the vehicle stand alone. It is important that nothing sticks up in front of any part of the
vehicle and causes an obstruction. Unless your final print will be of your automobile in a grassy field, do not take your pictures on a lawn or grassy field.
The blades of grass will hide the bottom of the tires as well as produce reflections and irregular shadowing on the lower panels and any reflective surfaces such as bumpers. This is also true if taking pictures on a gravel area. The tires could slightly depress the surface hiding the lower portion.
3.3. Positioning The Vehicle
Park the vehicle away from anything that will cause a reflection on it. For example, the white parking lot stripes will be reflected on the side panels and in the glass. Any building signs or even trees will be reflected and even if they are not clear, they will end up looking like distorted
body work in the final print. Remember your automobile can be like a mirror and many things around will show up as a reflection and later take away from the final picture.
Position the vehicle for the best lighting. Remember that you want to always take the picture from the sun side and not the shadow side (sun always behind you). This may require that you reposition the vehicle during a photo shoot for optimum lighting from all sides. Make sure that the areas that you are photographing (i.e. front/side, etc.) are positioned for best lighting.
3.5. What Angles Should You Take
Take a series of photographs with all doors, hood, trunk are completely closed. This series should include the following shots (refer to the example pictures). In this section we will include the final photographs that were created in order to help you jump ahead and start to visualize what can be done as you look at the different angles. These are only a few compositions, and many more combinations could be created using different backgrounds and the inclusion /
exclusion of various elements. Just use your imagination, and eventually you will be able to look at a vehicle and have a good idea of what the final print will look like.
4. Basic Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator Introduction
For most photography work and picture manipulation you will be using Adobe Photoshop or other similar photo editing tool. If you will be creating large prints greater than 11x17 with text, you should use an illustration tool that provides good text and layout capabilities such as Adobe Illustrator. With these two types of tools you can create fantastic and artistic pictures, and then
include them in professional looking layouts. The intent of this section is to provide some starting guidelines to create some of the basic pictures that are displayed on www.PalmieriConcepts.com. Keep in mind that the guidelines and steps provided here have been generalized, however, they will point you in the right direction to create a great picture. The references in this section are referring to Photoshop, so if you are using a different photo editing tool, you will need to find the equivalent features.
The full book contains the complete section on editing the photographs and creating an image like the one on the cover of the book.
So to get started, take what you have learned here, get out that camera and have fun.
For additional information on how to take great pictures and turn them into great art, take a look at the additional sections and the entire E-Book at Palmieri Concepts at
www.PalmieriConcepts.com. There are many examples in this Ebook and it is full of pictures to walk you through every step.
About the
Author
Anthony Palmieri founded Palmieri Concepts after 20 years of creating custom artwork for his own pleasure and enjoyment. This
business grew out of a love for motor vehicles and was started to share with others what began as a hobby. After taking his own pride and joys (yes this
really started with family pictures and not cars) and combining them with creativity, it became obvious that many others would like to showcase their loves
1. Introduction:
If you have just picked up a camera for the first time, or have been taking pictures for years, the information contained in this guide will ensure that you do not overlook anything as you frame and shoot that picture.
Taking your photographs to the next level, by using a few
computer tools, no special filters, and free clip art, we will walk you through the steps to create a picture like the one on the cover of this book as easy as 1-2-3.
When displaying your vehicle at a show, enthusiasts like yourself pay close attention to every detail down to the shine on the bolts to ensure that the automobile is perfect. The end quality of your pictures is dependent upon your attention to details. Whenever we take a photograph for a client and create their unique art we do exactly the same. Starting with the right photograph is key and we will provide some often overlooked aspects of automotive photography. Remember that you must start with the right photograph in order to obtain good and even great results
2. Digital Photography Basics For
Automobiles:
There are two assumptions made here. The first is, that you are interested in color photography and the second is that you have read your camera owners manual and understand the features and capabilities at least at a basic level. With that said the intent of this guide is to help you get started with taking photographs and getting the best possible results. Before we continue, there is one thing often overlooked until it is too late that will ruin
a great photograph. Shut off the date and time stamp feature. You can be sure that it will always take away from the picture or be in the wrong place where no amount of editing can account for it.
The focus here is to start with the best of everything possible and use your camera to the fullest. This does not mean that you need to spend $2000 on a camera and special lenses, but it does mean taking advantage of the best capabilities your camera provides.
Even a $100 camera can create good small prints. After you understand your cameras feature menu and how to navigate it go back and re-read the picture quality section again. Once you understand that section set your camera to the BEST modes possible
2.3. Always Use The Flash- Well
Usually
No matter if you are using a standard film camera, or a digital camera you want to be sure that your camera ALWAYS uses the flash. The only possible exception to this would be for indoor photography where there are halogen or other obtrusive lighting that you may have to experiment with. To
force your camera to use the flash set your camera to "FORCE Flash" or "Fill Flash", not "AUTOMATIC Flash". This flash is often represented by a "lightening bolt" symbol. Automatic flash will determine if the flash goes off based upon the amount of light detected. When we tell you to use your flash in the sun, automatic flash will almost never turn on since it will think there is sufficient lighting. Using the flash helps to illuminate the shadowing areas, as well as minimizing any glare along with balancing the overall lighting. Force flash should be used for exterior shots, cockpit shots, and engine bay shots.
You compose and shoot that great engine bay shot and then realize when you are working with the photograph later that all you see if the top of the engine and nothing more. The flash will make the steering box, headers and other components stand out as well as enhance the top of the engine detail and make the colors stand out even more. The following examples show the difference with and without flash. In the first figure the image is rather washed out and with the blue not so blue and the red and other colors not all that brilliant.
2.7. Lens Filters and Shades
If you must take
photographs in bright sun, such as an outside car show, use a lens shade and force to overcome the harsh sun. The other alternative to use especially if your flash is not powerful enough flash is to use a polarizing filter instead of the flash. The polarizing filter is one of the most useful filters for outdoor photography and is a requirement for any serious photographer, especially for those that use a digital camera. A polarizing filter will reduce the glare and make colors stand out more in harsh sun conditions. These filters can significantly reduce white-outs or wash-outs (surfaces with the primary color all washed out) due to bright reflections. Some photograph flaws can be edited out and touched up, however, these flaws are nearly impossible to eliminate after the fact and make look natural.
A second important tool to have in your camera bag is a lens shade. A lens shade is inexpensive and is attached on the end of your lens to keep excess light from directly entering lens. It basically provides a tunnel that shields the optics (lens), and due to its black
color absorbs any bouncing light. This helps the camera to better detect the light levels of the subject.
3. The Photo Shoot - How Do We Work With
What We Have
Now that you have a general understanding of how to use your camera, lets focus on where, when, and how to get the optimum environment. There are some things in our control, and others that are not, and at any one time they can change. It is important that we discuss each
elements so you can decide what to do given your situation. These elements are lighting, the location, and the position of the automobile. If you are restricted to a specific time of day, then you many not have any control over the lighting, or do you. If you are photographing the vehicle at a show, you are probably limited to its position and location. Ideally you want the best lighting, optimum flexibility with positioning the vehicle. Lastly if you are going to remove the background from the final print, the cleanest background for editing is desirable. This section will help you take advantage of any flexibility and optimize your shoot given the environment.
3.1. Pick The Right Lighting
Given that we are focusing on color photography, proper lighting is essential. In fact proper lighting actually means LOTS OF LIGHT, and the correct type of light. Without proper lighting it is nearly impossible to have an award winning photograph, even one that has touched up with the best photo editing tools. When it comes to lighting you want to have an even distribution of light over the entire surface of the automobile. This light illuminates all areas, is not harsh or glaring and does not cause shadowing.
Sunlight that is at a low-angle such as at sun rise or sun set is often the best. This low-angle light covers the side surfaces with light. Sun light that is high in the sky such as that mid-day harsh sun must be avoided or you will have glaring reflections. This harsh light results in the top surfaces being washed out, and the lower areas being dark with excessive shadowing. The ultimate goal is low angle, soft, evenly distributed light that illuminates the entire vehicle.
Also remember to keep the sun behind you and watch out for your own shadow!
3.2. Picking The Location
The lighter color the ground surface the
better the lower area lighting will be and less lower body panel shadowing due to the upward reflected light. Parking the vehicle on a light colored concrete surface versus a dark asphalt surface has this is a major benefit as well as making the tire profiles stand out due to the black rubber from the lighter surface. This reflection will better illuminate the lower areas including the undercarriage and minimize shadows.
The intent for many of the photographs put into fantasy scenes is to remove the background and have the vehicle stand alone. It is important that nothing sticks up in front of any part of the
vehicle and causes an obstruction. Unless your final print will be of your automobile in a grassy field, do not take your pictures on a lawn or grassy field.
The blades of grass will hide the bottom of the tires as well as produce reflections and irregular shadowing on the lower panels and any reflective surfaces such as bumpers. This is also true if taking pictures on a gravel area. The tires could slightly depress the surface hiding the lower portion.
3.3. Positioning The Vehicle
Park the vehicle away from anything that will cause a reflection on it. For example, the white parking lot stripes will be reflected on the side panels and in the glass. Any building signs or even trees will be reflected and even if they are not clear, they will end up looking like distorted
body work in the final print. Remember your automobile can be like a mirror and many things around will show up as a reflection and later take away from the final picture.
Position the vehicle for the best lighting. Remember that you want to always take the picture from the sun side and not the shadow side (sun always behind you). This may require that you reposition the vehicle during a photo shoot for optimum lighting from all sides. Make sure that the areas that you are photographing (i.e. front/side, etc.) are positioned for best lighting.
3.5. What Angles Should You Take
Take a series of photographs with all doors, hood, trunk are completely closed. This series should include the following shots (refer to the example pictures). In this section we will include the final photographs that were created in order to help you jump ahead and start to visualize what can be done as you look at the different angles. These are only a few compositions, and many more combinations could be created using different backgrounds and the inclusion /
exclusion of various elements. Just use your imagination, and eventually you will be able to look at a vehicle and have a good idea of what the final print will look like.
4. Basic Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator Introduction
For most photography work and picture manipulation you will be using Adobe Photoshop or other similar photo editing tool. If you will be creating large prints greater than 11x17 with text, you should use an illustration tool that provides good text and layout capabilities such as Adobe Illustrator. With these two types of tools you can create fantastic and artistic pictures, and then
include them in professional looking layouts. The intent of this section is to provide some starting guidelines to create some of the basic pictures that are displayed on www.PalmieriConcepts.com. Keep in mind that the guidelines and steps provided here have been generalized, however, they will point you in the right direction to create a great picture. The references in this section are referring to Photoshop, so if you are using a different photo editing tool, you will need to find the equivalent features.
The full book contains the complete section on editing the photographs and creating an image like the one on the cover of the book.
So to get started, take what you have learned here, get out that camera and have fun.
For additional information on how to take great pictures and turn them into great art, take a look at the additional sections and the entire E-Book at Palmieri Concepts at
www.PalmieriConcepts.com. There are many examples in this Ebook and it is full of pictures to walk you through every step.
About the
Author
Anthony Palmieri founded Palmieri Concepts after 20 years of creating custom artwork for his own pleasure and enjoyment. This
business grew out of a love for motor vehicles and was started to share with others what began as a hobby. After taking his own pride and joys (yes this
really started with family pictures and not cars) and combining them with creativity, it became obvious that many others would like to showcase their loves
Action Photography
Of all the kinds and styles of photography being practiced today, sports photography is probably the most exciting?not to mention the most difficult?of
all.
Since this kind of photography involves so much speed and action, photographing the subjects or players would require more than the usual knack for
good angles but also the strength to endure physical limitations during the shoot.
Sports photography usually include shots that are taken during
the game or while the subjects are in their respective field. Aiming to ?freeze? moments during the actual event, sports photographers should be equipped
with the right photography equipment, trained with enduring tenacity, and fueled with an overwhelming desire to capture each moment and emotion at their
best.
PHOTOGRAPHING DIFFERENT KINDS OF SPORTS
The best thing about sports photography is that the photographer can
freeze a single moment that contains pure and raw emotion and share it with the public in print. If you?re into photography and quite interested in taking
adrenaline-pumping shots, you should familiarize yourself with different kinds of sports first. Since each sport varies, the styles and techniques used in
capturing and freezing each moment also vary.
If you are already in the field taking photos, it is a must that you have a brief background about the
sport you are covering. Knowledge in the fundamentals of coaching style, sport rules, and players will help you identify their most interesting angles. It is
also a must to identify your ?safety? (a shot that is easy to shoot and can be published if you don?t get good photos all throughout).
Here are
some basic sports photography guidelines fit for common sports:
1. Baseball. Most seasoned sports photographers would agree that baseball
is one sport that is hardest to shoot because of its unpredictability. Make sure that you get your safety first before getting experimental shots.
2.
Basketball. Unlike baseball, this is the easiest sport to shoot because you only have to focus on two subjects: the player who handles the ball and the net.
But its simplicity limits you to different angles, so make sure you get plenty of shots to choose from.
3. Football. This is another easy sport to
shoot but it is considered as the most equipment intense sports because it would require waiting for the perfect shot. Although it?s easy to get safeties,
it?s still up to you to produce action shots that would be a stand up.
4. Soccer and Hockey. Because of the speed and sudden movements
involved in these sports, auto focus cameras are recommended.
5. Volleyball. Although it is one of the rarely covered sports events, volleyball is
also one of favorites because dramatic shots can be derived all throughout. Since moves in the sports are quite tricky, make sure that you turn your
camera?s auto focus on.
6. Golf. It?s hard to shoot photos during the game due to the nature of the game itself. What you can do is to camp at
one location and take shots as players pass by or use a cart to follow the individual players.
7. Track and Field. Though access can be limited,
this is one sport that is fun to shoot because movements are predictable and easy to shoot. All you need is good timing.
8. Gymnastics and
Figure Skating. One basic rule in these sports: NO FLASH. Since they involve individuals performing, the use of flash is restricted because it distracts the
players. The major problem you?ll encounter is lighting but this can be solved once the venue is lit up.
9. Motorsports and Racing Events. These
are fairly easy to photograph because you can get away with slower lenses. But since you?re far from the track, you need longer lenses for the
shoot.
About the Author:
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provided by Low Jeremy. It may be used only in its entirety with all links included. For more information on photography & other useful information, please
visit http://photography.articlekeep.com
The Art Of Photography Magazines
A photograph is a picture painted by the sun without instruction in art (Ambrose Pierce). Let?s face it, we cannot all be Van Gogh or Monet, and we
will not even try; but photography.
Now that is an art for the common man. From the childhood pinhole camera to the digital SLR as an adult, all of us
have dabbled, some of us more than others, in this form of expression. There is something about memories ? we all hold on to them, in our minds, and in
our scrapbooks.
If you want to know how to make your photographs look better, then a subscription to a photography magazine is the best way
to get there. I would recommend subscriptions to at least three, actually.
The Popular Photography Magazine is great for beginners, and is
referred to by professionals as well. Each issue of this magazine teaches you the basics of photography, like composition and production. There is a
section for new products, to help you make the correct choice of equipment, according to your budget and level of interest and expertise. There are
helpful tips and solutions to making your pictures look better.
If collecting photographs is more up your alley, then the Blind Spot Magazine is for
you. Not only does it feature the finest works of art that you will find, it also showcases some upcoming talent. This is the best source of works for a
collector, or a curator, as well as for designers, who are looking for innovations in their work. Most of the photographs featured in this magazine are
those that have never been seen before. Try it; it will satisfy the artist in you.
Aspiring and established photographers swear by the American
Photo Magazine. It is very technical, and has reviews and curtain-raisers on the latest equipment in the market. There are sections devoted to industry
trends and techniques as well.
The digital way of living has changed the way photographs are taken. Some people have welcomed digital
cameras with open arms, but the more orthodox one swear by film. Without being biased, there is no denying that computers are here to stay, and there
is a beautiful relationship between computers and photography in this age of flawless imagery. The PCPhoto Magazine makes life easier for the digital
artist. This magazine provides, in each issue, step-by-step instructions on how to enhance and improve your digital images. There is a whole section
dedicated especially to the newest cameras, scanners and software in the market.
Another magazine that tries to please both factions in the
digital vs film war is the Photo Techniques Magazine. This magazine deals with Photoshop in detail; essential in today?s imaging business. It should be of
great help to both the professional and the amateur.
As for the video enthusiasts, there are two magazines that will help, whether you are a
beginner, or an expert ? the Videomaker Magazine and the Camcorder Magazine. Now you can make your own home videos and edit them, but better
than your parents did!
There are many more magazines in the market. You just have to figure out which one is of more useful to you. And
remember, when you click in color, you capture the clothes; when you click in black and white, you capture the soul.
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A Guide To Choosing The Perfect Camera Bag
Good Camera Bags are crucial to the amateur and professional photographers alike. You've just spent time deciding on which digital camera to
buy, now all you need to do is to find a suitable bag to protect your camera and your equipment.
Next to your Camera, a camera bag could well be the
most important piece of kit you purchase. You certainly want to protect the camera you just spent your hard earned money on, and it also needs to be a
safe and sturdy carrying case. It's very important that your bag allows you to access your equipment easily and helps you organize your photographic
equipment into compartments where possible.
There are many different bags available, from Crumpler and Sony to Lowerpro and Domke, all in a variety
of shapes, sizes, materials, and functions. Which bag is most suitable to you largely depends on the type and intensity of photography you undertake. For
example a Landscape photographer will often find him or herself shooting in damp or wet environments, so a durable, waterproof bag is appropriate.
However, a weekend photographer shooting family day outs would simply need a soft, padded bag, normally carried over one shoulder for ease.
A
cam-bag should make carrying your camera easier, not more of a hassle. So make sure that you find a bag that fits your camera well and preferably has
wide, padded straps for comfort. If you are just starting out, you may only need a simple basic camera bag that will just hold just your camera.
However, if you're more experienced, or carry more kit than usual, such as lenses, filters etc, you will obviously need a larger bag capable of taking more
weight. Ideally, you're going to want one that can hold all of the accessories you use most. Normally a camera body, spare lens, cleaning cloth and
memory card holder. Remember though, if your camera bag is going to be used to carry more than just a camera, you definitely want dividers in it. These
make it easier to keep your accessories separate. Try to find a bag with an inner zip pocket which can be ideal for your car keys or money, when traveling
on foot.
A very important factor often overlooked when choosing a camera bag is the 'Zip'. Look for Bags with big tooth zips. These type are less
likely to jam or stick if they get damp or dirty. Some of which are available with rain closures which protect the zipper from rain. There are also double
closure Zips which open and fasten from both ends, great for shooting pictures on the move. Although the color isn't crucial, it is worth thinking about
subtle colors, these will undoubtedly draw less attention from potential thieves and also mid toned bags will not absorb heat as quickly as other colors in
hot environments, which could cause possible problems with digital equipment.
About the Author
Gary Bunn is the Editor and
Webmaster of www.Your-Digital-Photography.com, a FREE photography resource site aimed at beginners and intermediate photographers,
providing news, reviews, comparisons, resources and a Digital Photography Store for all your needs.
6 Must-Haves for Your Female Photography Model Shoot
What does the client want?
If you are doing a female photography shoot for an agent or client, he will tell you what to bring but you still need to carry basics in case of changes in hair,
makeup, etc. All the tips listed here are meant to be a guide and a checklist of sorts so you can always add to the list when you feel it's necessary.
Let's get started to create your model "kit"
Below I'm going to list suggestions for your photo shoot mainly so you don't forget anything the day of the shoot. In fact, I'd like to see your model case
prepared before the day of the session so there's no rush. You may want to copy and print the section below so that you'll have a guide handy each time
you go for a photo shoot.
Number One - Wardrobe for Your female photography model Photo Shoot
Here are the essentials for your wardrobe. As stated above, some of the clothing listed here will be provided if this is a model shoot for a client.
- Casual - blue jeans, sports & knit tops, button up tops, shorts, cutoff blue jeans, etc.
- Business Suit - for a different look
- Sports (exercise, uniforms, shorts, etc.) - If you plan to do some sports modeling
- Lingerie - If you plan to enter the lingerie market
- Swim wear - needs to be a bikini that really flatters you
- Any props like hats, neckties, men's shirts, jackets, etc.
- G-string &?bra in flesh tone color - This is to eliminate lines that show under clothing
- Hose/nylons in an assortment of colors
- Socks in different colors including black and white
- Bring several different bras including at least one push-up and one in flesh tone color
- A robe to wear between changes during the photo session
- Bring a scarf to wear when changing to help keep makeup off client's and your clothing
- You may also want to pack an iron or steamer for those wrinkles that are bound to show up from the trip.
Number Two - Accessories for Your Modle Photo Shoot
Along with each outfit, try to bring accessories which will accent or match the outfit. Keep accessories simple.
- Assortment of necklaces
- Earrings
- Bracelets
- Choker (these are popular at the time of this writing)
- Watch - You normally wouldn't wear a watch unless you are doing a photo where you will be looking at the time.
- Number Three - Shoes
- As with accessories, shoes should match or accent the outfit. But, you can also think outside the box on the subject of footwear. For example; High
heels have a totally different look with jeans or swim wear than with an evening dress.
- Dress shoes - Bring several different pairs
- High heels - Also an assortment
- Jogging shoes - white
- Boots or high heel boots
- Sandals
Number Four - Don't forget about the hair
Below are some items you'll need for your hair (or hair removal)
- An assortment of combs and hairbrushes
- A curling iron
- Hair rollers
- Straightener
- A couple of headbands
- Shaving cream and a couple of sharp razors
- Anything else you use for hair care
When coming to the model shoot, I would suggest leaving the hair fairly natural with very little (if any) hairspray so that you, or the MUA, can work with it
after you arrive.
Number Five - Makeup and facial
Even if your shoot involves a MUA, you still may want to pack the following ...
- Your complete makeup kit along with a mirror
- A moisturizer
- Cottonballs and swabs
- Lip balm
- Vaseline
- A good skin cleanser
- Several different shades of lip color (be sure to bring some solid colors)
Number Six - Nails
A quick tip about nails. Remember that in photos, your eye will move to vivid colors first, especially red. So, take this into account as to whether you want
people viewing your hands or your face.
Here is a checklist for nail products to take to your photo shoot.
- Your complete manicure kit
- Nail polish with neutral color
- Remover kit for nail polish
A nice manicure will really enhance your model photos, especially images where your hand is near your face in close-ups so pay particular attention to
your nails.
This should pretty much cover you for most photo shoots but as stated above, listen to the photographer or client and be sure to bring wardrobe he or
she wants. Now, get packing for your female photography model photo session!!!
Bob Pardue is a professional stock and female
photographer located in the Southeastern USA. You can view some of his work and read other interesting model tips by visiting
http://www.bobpardue.com
If you are doing a female photography shoot for an agent or client, he will tell you what to bring but you still need to carry basics in case of changes in hair,
makeup, etc. All the tips listed here are meant to be a guide and a checklist of sorts so you can always add to the list when you feel it's necessary.
Let's get started to create your model "kit"
Below I'm going to list suggestions for your photo shoot mainly so you don't forget anything the day of the shoot. In fact, I'd like to see your model case
prepared before the day of the session so there's no rush. You may want to copy and print the section below so that you'll have a guide handy each time
you go for a photo shoot.
Number One - Wardrobe for Your female photography model Photo Shoot
Here are the essentials for your wardrobe. As stated above, some of the clothing listed here will be provided if this is a model shoot for a client.
- Casual - blue jeans, sports & knit tops, button up tops, shorts, cutoff blue jeans, etc.
- Business Suit - for a different look
- Sports (exercise, uniforms, shorts, etc.) - If you plan to do some sports modeling
- Lingerie - If you plan to enter the lingerie market
- Swim wear - needs to be a bikini that really flatters you
- Any props like hats, neckties, men's shirts, jackets, etc.
- G-string &?bra in flesh tone color - This is to eliminate lines that show under clothing
- Hose/nylons in an assortment of colors
- Socks in different colors including black and white
- Bring several different bras including at least one push-up and one in flesh tone color
- A robe to wear between changes during the photo session
- Bring a scarf to wear when changing to help keep makeup off client's and your clothing
- You may also want to pack an iron or steamer for those wrinkles that are bound to show up from the trip.
Number Two - Accessories for Your Modle Photo Shoot
Along with each outfit, try to bring accessories which will accent or match the outfit. Keep accessories simple.
- Assortment of necklaces
- Earrings
- Bracelets
- Choker (these are popular at the time of this writing)
- Watch - You normally wouldn't wear a watch unless you are doing a photo where you will be looking at the time.
- Number Three - Shoes
- As with accessories, shoes should match or accent the outfit. But, you can also think outside the box on the subject of footwear. For example; High
heels have a totally different look with jeans or swim wear than with an evening dress.
- Dress shoes - Bring several different pairs
- High heels - Also an assortment
- Jogging shoes - white
- Boots or high heel boots
- Sandals
Number Four - Don't forget about the hair
Below are some items you'll need for your hair (or hair removal)
- An assortment of combs and hairbrushes
- A curling iron
- Hair rollers
- Straightener
- A couple of headbands
- Shaving cream and a couple of sharp razors
- Anything else you use for hair care
When coming to the model shoot, I would suggest leaving the hair fairly natural with very little (if any) hairspray so that you, or the MUA, can work with it
after you arrive.
Number Five - Makeup and facial
Even if your shoot involves a MUA, you still may want to pack the following ...
- Your complete makeup kit along with a mirror
- A moisturizer
- Cottonballs and swabs
- Lip balm
- Vaseline
- A good skin cleanser
- Several different shades of lip color (be sure to bring some solid colors)
Number Six - Nails
A quick tip about nails. Remember that in photos, your eye will move to vivid colors first, especially red. So, take this into account as to whether you want
people viewing your hands or your face.
Here is a checklist for nail products to take to your photo shoot.
- Your complete manicure kit
- Nail polish with neutral color
- Remover kit for nail polish
A nice manicure will really enhance your model photos, especially images where your hand is near your face in close-ups so pay particular attention to
your nails.
This should pretty much cover you for most photo shoots but as stated above, listen to the photographer or client and be sure to bring wardrobe he or
she wants. Now, get packing for your female photography model photo session!!!
Bob Pardue is a professional stock and female
photographer located in the Southeastern USA. You can view some of his work and read other interesting model tips by visiting
http://www.bobpardue.com
The Art Of Glamour And Nude Photography
Understanding the art of glamour photography.
Creating nude portraits has long been an element of art - instead of capturing these portraits
with the brush on canvas; today they are captured with the pixel.
Since the invention of photography the naked human body has been a natural
subject for photographers and there has always been a large audience there for it.
What is glamour photography? Glamour photography covers
a wide range - from the partial nude body, which you may see an a billboard advertising ladies underwear to the erotic images or the full nude body you
may see on Page 3 of some papers or adult magazines.
There are no special elements to photographing glamour; all the standard photography
techniques remain the same. Care should be taken when photographing models, nude or partially nude because some may find a sexual element
attached to it.
Finding a market: Glamour photography remains one of the most lucrative areas of freelance photography. For a student trying to
break into the glamour photography market, he would be well advised to use a film camera over digital. Film will give you warmer skin tones and give you
a greater chance of being published.
When trying to find suitable markets for your glamour photography, the same principles apply as in any
other photography field. You must study ?Glamour Photography Publications? to find out what sort of material they use.
Where to shoot: If you
don?t have your own studio, don?t worry. Most of the great glamour images are shot on location. Shooting in the natural environment will be rewarding -
use the early morning light to give extra warmth to the skin. Try different places - your neighbours hay barn can make an effective setting for a glamour
image or if you have an attractive garden - perfect.
Choosing a model: One of the basic elements of glamour photography is a willing model. If
you are having trouble finding one try your local art classes. People with an ambition to be a model may let you do test work. But if you are serious about
being a glamour photographer you should work with a professional model.
Glamour images don?t always need to be sharp. Many of the great
glamour photographers defuse their image with a filter to add mood to their nude portraits. The best way to get good is plenty of practise and sharpen
your eye by looking at glamour publications.
There should be greater emphasis on controlling light contrast to ensure that the human body isn?t
lost in heavy shadows or bright highlights. Controlling exposure is very important to get the perfect body tones.
While many may find this type of
photography offensive, the glamour photographer is an artist and should be respected as one. It?s not for me to comment on whether the use of glamour
material is good or bad, but to explain the art of this competitive and lucrative market.
About the Author:
TJ Tierney is an award winning Irish Landscape photographer and a freelance writer. He
frequently writes for the photography directory
target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.goldprints.com and the shopping directory
target="_blank">http://www.shop-4us.com To view or buy some of his images visit his on line gallery @
title="http://www.goldenirishlight.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >http://www.goldenirishlight.com
Camera Tripod Variations and Uses
In simple form, a camera tripod is best explained as a three-legged stand used to stabilize and elevate a camera. A camera tripod can be used in
either still or motion imagery. Most commonly used by professional photographers in a studio, a camera tripod is designed to capture the perfect image every time.
A camera tripod is available in several variations, including floor model or tabletop. The least expensive begins at $50.00 and goes up,
depending on the size and features. A basic camera tripod is designed for consumers and is best used for amateur photography or filming. An expensive
camera tripod features feet suitable for rough ground and the head of the unit is designed move smoothly for improved video recording. The most
expensive, which are used is studios and professional filming, are made of wood.
A full-size camera tripod is much better equipped to handle heavier
equipment, whereas a tabletop model can accommodate up to 50lbs. These portable units are ideal for traveling and where compact equipment is
needed.
There are several ways that a camera tripod can be used, including a family portrait where you want to be included in the photo. Simply set
the camera up on a tripod and position it so that everyone is in perfect view, set the timer on your camera, push the button to take a photo and get into
place with the family. Other uses may include an instance where your hands are shaky and you want to stabilize the camera for a quality image or if you
are responsible for taking school pictures. Do you remember the days of middle school when the photographer would come into the gymnasium, set up
his/her background sheet and tripod? All he/she had to do was to situate the child, convince him/her to smile and snap the picture. A camera tripod makes
it easy to take multiple photos, in which the subjects are in the same location, without having to worry about placement every single time. With a tripod,
placement is always perfect so long as the subject is where he/she should be.
When shopping for a camera tripod, first consider the uses that you will
need it for. The weight of your camera, the needed features and swivel capabilities, the locations that the tripod will be placed and the needed height. In
addition, a realistic budget that you can afford will be best considered early before shopping for a camera tripod. Most photography supply stores, both
online and local, may offer camera tripods. Before purchasing, be sure to check out the dealer's reputation with the Better Business Bureau and also
learn about their return policy.
About the Author
To get more facts about camera
phone, check out our website at www.top-camera-phone-guide.info for lots of free camera phone information and reviews.
Digital Camera Accessory Tips
Now that you are the proud owner of that brand new digital camera, I bet you are looking for just the perfect digital camera accessory to go along with it. There are a multitude of accessories available,
so read along and see what some of my
so read along and see what some of my
recommendations are.
One of the first things I would personally recommend would be a UV filter. Not only will it help to block the UV light which can
give your photographs a slightly blue tint, but perhaps more importantly, it will protect your expensive lens from becoming scratched. I don't know about
you, but I would certainly rather replace an inexpensive UV filter, than my expensive camera lens.
Another great digital camera accessory is most
definitely an additional memory stick. There is nothing worse than being caught with a full memory stick when you are somewhere without your computer
to download your digital photographs to. They come in many sizes from small, usually around 64MB or less, to very large 512MB or larger. For most of
us, somewhere in the middle is fine. Price is usually the determining factor here, but sometimes the largest versions can tend to make even the best of us
a bit lackadaisical about downloading our digital pictures to our computers. That's a bad habit to get into. You don't ever want to trust your priceless
memories to just one storage medium. Back-up! Back-up! Back-up! I can't say that enough.
A tripod is probably a more useful digital camera
accessory than you might first think. You might be surprised how many times you find yourself in a situation where the level of light just isn't high enough
and a flash would ruin the shot. Probably even more likely is the number of times throughout your photographic journey you will want to take a group
photo. Wouldn't it be nice if you were in that photo? Well, with a tripod you can be. Almost every camera made these days has at least a basic delay
function to allow you time to position yourself in the photo. You don't necessarily even have to go in for the full size unit. There are a number of table top
versions available that work perfectly for most occasions.
A final and absolutely necessary digital camera accessory would be a camera bag. Even if
your new camera came with a small carry bag, you will probably soon find yourself in dire need of more space than the original one has. As you
accumulate more digital camera accessories, you will need someplace to keep them. Batteries, a small battery charger, lens filters, additional memory
sticks, the list goes on. You will definitely need plenty of pockets in your camera bag to hold all your new gear.
You have just embarked on a great new
journey. Don't be afraid to get that perfect, new digital camera accessory to top it all off with. And most of all have a great time enjoying your new
hobby.
About the Author
Jerry Parker is an avid hobby photographer and author, who regularly contributes to the digital camera information website http://www.digi-kams.com
How to take Great Photos of your Child
How to take Great Photos of your Child
by: Kelly Paal
Children are naturally photogenic. Ive worked in studios and children are so easy to photograph. What I hear from parents is that they dont think that their kids are that easy to photograph. Thats only because they dont know some basic tips.
1. Young children especially infants take beautiful photos while they are asleep.
Keep the light natural avoid flash if at all possible. Keep the image tight on the child and crop out distractions. For infants when theyre awake youre better off having another person in image, it gives the child someone to interact with and you can crop the shot to keep the other person out of the image or you can keep the adult and child in the photo.
2. Toddlers look best when they dont know that youre taking their photo. Candid shots are the way to go for this age group. Keep your camera handy and when they start doing something cute snap the photo quick. Remember your child doesnt have to be looking directly into the camera to take a great photo. Dont ever say to the toddler, Oh how cute, now look here. It wont happen.
3. Children ages 4 plus are really good at sitting for photos. But if youre going to dress them up make sure that they are comfortable and dont put them in some outfit they hate, it will show in the image. Crop tight on your subject, keep the light natural, and if youre using a toy to get their attention make sure that it makes them laugh and doesnt scare them. (I learned that lesson the hard way.)
4. Older children are really good at dressing up for photos. The hardest thing will be getting a natural smile from them. Say, cheese is a sure fire way to get a fake smile. Most of us learned young to smile automatically at that cue. Here you have to get silly. One time I was working with a young boy and his older sister. She was a natural smiler and loved being dressed up. He was not happy and kept pulling at his tie. His mother straightened it for the tenth time. I posed them and addressed the young boy I said, Now on the count of three I want you to say, I hate this tie! His sister smiled surprised at what I said, and he grinned. I took the photo. He then screamed, I hate this tie! Again both smiled wide and I took a second photo. The images turned out beautiful.
I hope these tips help you to take better photos of your child. With a little practice and a few tips youll see better family photos immediately.
If you have some specific questions please visit my Photography Forum at: http://kellypaalphotography.com/v-web/bulletin/bb/index.php and post your question there.
About The Author Copyright 2004 Kelly Paal Kelly Paal is a Freelance Nature and Landscape Photographer, exhibiting nationally and internationally. Recently she started her own business Kelly Paal Photography (www.kellypaalphotography.com). She has an educational background in photography, business, and commercial art. She enjoys applying graphic design and photography principles to her web design. |
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
The Rule of Thirds Simplified
You would have come across hundreds of photographs where the main subject is in the middle of the frame. You probably might find those
photographs uninteresting and perhaps even boring and monotonous. It would be a pity because some shot-worthy moments are hard to come by, and
should have been shot to invoke interest.
As an avid photographer, I always ask myself this question whenever I am composing a frame: ?
What story am I going to tell with this shot?? It could be a beggar lying on the street or a giraffe sticking its tongue out; a good
photograph should convey the same emotions or feelings invoked by the subject to anyone viewing it as what the photographer would be feeling when he
took the shot.
I find that a common way of composing the shot is to frame the main subject (the person) at the centre of the photograph,
especially when people go on holidays. The flaw of this is that the subject obscures the background (i.e. the sky, buildings, scenery, etc) and nothing is
seen of the beautiful scenery, or activities going on in the background. Unless you are going for a portrait, you should avoid taking shots of the subject
obscuring the background (which could be very much more interesting!).
Next, allow me to explain the Rule of Thirds which will help you to add
dynamism to your photos. I used to take shots that were pretty normal and nothing to excite anyone who sees them. But ever since I practiced the Rule of
Thirds when composing shots, I have had friends and colleagues compliment me on my pictures. You can too ? just follow closely to what I will be
explaining in the next section.
The Rule of Thirds
The Rule of Thirds can be found in basically any textbook on
photography as it can make your photos stand out among the rest. The method involves dividing the entire frame into thirds both horizontally and
vertically. Imagine drawing three lines across horizontally and another three lines vertically so that you divide your image into 9 squares. When composing
your shot, just place the more important elements (people, animals, trees and interesting subjects) either along these lines or at where the lines
intersect.
Try it out! Pick up your digital camera and aim it at a friend. Place your friend?s eyes where the top horizontal line is, or where the top
horizontal line meets the leftmost or rightmost vertical line. Depress the shutter button and you should have a nicely balanced and interesting picture.
Most importantly, it helps to eliminate the common problem of ?too much space at the sides? because you did not fill up the frame
sufficiently.
Conclusion
Though the Rule of Thirds has helped me to better my shots, I find that it is just a guideline and
that sometimes better shots can be achieved though you do not adhere to it. As every photo moment is unique, the Rule of Thirds is one of the rules you
need to practice with discretion sometimes. Nonetheless I am confident that this guideline will help you to achieve some breathtaking shots. So,
remember to apply the Rule of Thirds the next time you are composing a shot!
The author is an avid photographer who enjoys taking photographs of flowers and small pets. Needless to say, it cost
him a bomb and burnt a big hole in his pocket. He has caught the "buy-and-buy" virus and he has burnt another hole in his pocket for some new glass but
he thinks it is worth it.
His website which recommends the best buys on the internet can be found at http://www.ebayholic.info/
His personal blog can be found at http://mazatello.blogspot.com/
How a Digital Camera Works
How a Digital Camera Works
by: Jakob Jelling
The digital camera is not something of a magic box that came out of the blue and made wonders! The digital camera is very much like the conventional analog camera, Looking a bit more in details about the working of the fantastic device, the digital camera. As a continuation of the above lines, it can be further investigated that the sensor array is basically a microchip about 10 mm across. Every image sensor is a charged-couple device (CCD) converting light into electric charges, and is essentially a silicon chip used to measure light. These charges are stored as analog data that are then converted to digital via a device called an analog to digital converter (ADC). Over the chip are present a collection of very small light-sensitive diodes, named photosites, or pixels that convert light (or more scientifically, photons) into electrical charges called electrons. The pixels are very much light sensitive, therefore with brighter light striking them, produces greater build up of electrical charges. Each 1000 array receptor creates 1 pixel, and every pixel corresponds to some information stored. The light enters the digital camera via the lens, which is the same mechanism as the conventional analog camera. And this light hits the CCD when the photographer presses the shutter button. The shutter opens and thereby illuminates every pixel, however with various intensities. Taking a look apart, it can be observed that quite a few digital cameras use CMOS (meaning complementary metal oxide semiconductor, a technology of manufacturing these microchips) technology based microchips as image sensors. The basic advantage is that the CMOS sensors are appreciably cheaper and simpler to fabricate than CCDs. Another great advantage from CMOS sensors is that these take very less power compared to other technology, which adds up to the fact as to their extensive use, and can thus even support the implementation of additional circuitry on the same chip like ADC, some control units etc. Thus it can be stated that CMOS technology based cameras are small, light, cheap and also energy efficient, yet at the cost of some amount of image quality. However the common trend remains that all cameras of the mega pixel range and higher up use CCD chips instead of CMOS. This is because of the fact of picture quality only, leaving aside the price differences. This is basically the fact about how digital cameras work! Having known this much difference would not come in the photographing expertise of the users, but it always feels a kind of satisfaction on understanding the inner depths of a device that is so close to the eyes! By Jakob Jelling About The Author
but the technology has been altered. It also contains most of the associated components that the conventional camera contains, like lens and a shutter for letting in light, however instead of reaching a photosensitive film, the light is made to fall upon array of image sensors or photosensitive cells. Much of the differences are like this, yet most of it still remains in oblivion for the ordinary people. And it order that the digital camera gets its true respect, it is necessary to explore these areas of truth and reveal them in light.
Jakob Jelling is the founder of http://www.snapjunky.com. Visit his digital camera guide and learn how to take better pictures with your digicam.
How to Take Great Flower Photos
I know that many out there want to improve their photography in one aspect. Flower photography. With gardening as popular as it is this shouldnt be a surprise. Flower photography can be a lot of fun especially if the flowers are your own. If you have some specific questions please visit my Photography and Design Forum at: http://kellypaalphotography.com/v-web/bulletin/bb/index.php and post your question there. About The Author
Flower photography while looking like one of the simplest forms of photography can quickly become one of the most difficult. Here are a few tips for you. (Keeping in mind that basic good photography skills are always used.)
Copyright 2005 Kelly Paal
Kelly Paal is a Freelance Nature and Landscape Photographer, exhibiting nationally and internationally. She owns her own business Kelly Paal Photography (http://www.kellypaalphotography.com/). She has an educational background in photography, business, and commercial art. She enjoys applying graphic design and photography principles to her web design
Monday, May 18, 2009
Are Film Cameras Better than Digital Cameras?
Film cameras are becoming rare. Although digital cameras have come a long way since they were first introduced there are still photographers that prefer to use old film cameras. Some of them use film exclusively while others prefer film for specific scenarios.
There is no simple answer to the question which camera is better, film or digital. In some scenarios film is better than digital and in other scenarios digital is better than film. They both have advantages and disadvantages and the true answer to which is better is simply a list of differences.
Here are a few:The sensor: In film cameras a light sensitive film is situated behind the lens. To take a photo the shutter opens for a predetermined period of time and light hits the film ?printing? a photo on the film.
After a photo is taken the film is rolled and a fresh film is placed behind the lens. In digital cameras an electronic sensor (known as CCD) is situated behind the lens. The CCD is comprised of many tiny light sensitive sensors one per pixel. To take a photo the shutter opens for a predetermined period of time and light hits the sensor.
Each pixel gets its value and together all the pixels comprise one photo. The photo is saved on a digital media and the CCD is electronically emptied.
The main difference between a CCD sensor and a film is the Depth of Field. Since digital sensors are smaller than 35mm film the depth of field is much bigger in fact in most compact digital cameras it is almost infinite.
Instant feedback: One of great
features digital cameras is instant feedback. Digital cameras include a small LCD screen. After a photo is shot it can be viewed on that screen. If the photo is not good you can take another one. The ability to view the photos helps in making an educated decision on how to fix it or how to compose it better. It takes much of the guessing out of photography.
Photo capacity: Digital cameras today can hold hundreds and even thousands of digital
photos on a single media. With extra storage media in your pocket digital cameras have virtually infinite capacity. On the other hand film cameras? capacity is very limited. The standard is a roll of 36 photos which can hold only 36 photos. After such a roll is used changing to a new roll takes time and is not easy to do in scenarios such as darkness or a harsh environment. Rolls of film are not small and carrying rolls equivalent of thousands of photos is not practical.
Shooting angles: Digital cameras allow you to take photos without having your eye glued to the viewfinder. Combined with the
virtually zero cost of taking photos and high capacity this means new opportunities for new shooting angles.
A photo cost: Photos taken with a
digital camera really cost nothing. They are saved on erasable memory and thus can always be freely discarded. The photos that you decide to keep can be copied to digital media such as a computer?s hard disk. With low digital storage prices the cost of storing one photo is practically zero. Film does cost money. A roll of film costs money and can not be reused. Every time that the shutter button is pressed money is spent regardless if you later on decide to discard them.
Photo processing: Digital cameras photos are basically computer files and can be manipulated by computer software.
Such software is known as photo processing software and allows you to correct photos and create special effects. Some photo processing abilities are built-in cameras. With film on the other hand it is very hard to make corrections. If corrections are absolutely needed the easiest way to do them is to scan the negative or the printed photo (i.e. converted to digital) and process it on a computer as if it was a digital camera photo.
Adapting to different conditions: Rolls of film are designed for specific scenarios There are indoor and outdoor films or films with different light sensitivity. When conditions change a film camera photographer will have to shoot with the wrong film, change the roll (and lose the remainder photos) or use another camera with a different roll in it. Shooting photos with the wrong roll of film can result in distorted colors (reddish photos for example), a grainy photo and more.
With digital cameras on the other hand the characteristics of the sensor can be electronically set. With a click of a button the camera can change to indoor or outdoor mode, low light, night photography and son on.
Ziv Haparnas is a technology veteran and writes about practical technology and science issues. This article can be reprinted and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. You can find more information about photo album printing and photography in general on http://www.printrates.com/ - a site dedicated to photo printing. |
A Quick Checklist Before Buying A Digital Camera
In a quandary as to what kind of digital camera to invest in? Should you buy the cheap one first or go straight for the Rolls Royce of digital cameras?
Digital cameras can be extremely notorious for making you regret the "buy cheap first" decision. Getting an understanding of what digital cameras can and
probably cannot do will go a long way in guiding you to buy that first one. Here are seven things to look out for:
- Categories of a camera
- ultra compact--by far, the lowest of the low-end, no flash, no zoom, no nothing; just aim and shoot
- compact--for the hobbyist, basic features;
- digital SLR cameras--single-lens reflex cameras, for the serious photographer.
- Mega pixels
- 3 mega pixels--for basic snapshots; small prints are okay but pixelation occurs when the photos are enlarged;
- between 5 and 10 mega pixels--you can count on good quality prints;
- 10 mega pixels and above--aside from producing excellent quality large prints, you can easily do image manipulation.
- Zoom
- optical zoom factor--by magnifying the light entering the main lens, distant objects appear close; this produces good quality photos;
- digital zoom factor--magnifies the resulting image.
- Carrying case and tripod
- Storage media
- Battery
- Lenses and filters
- macro lens--allows you to take close-ups of objects like insects and flowers;
- wide-angle lens--self-explanatory, used to capture large and wide sceneries;
- telephoto lens--can you say paparazzi? Filters can be used to soften or enhance images, which means adding more drama some shots.
Most reasonably priced cameras will bundle these two items in the same package but very likely, the case will only be a pouch, which is just enough for the camera itself. If you have decided to "soup up" your digital camera, then you should also invest in a more spacious carrying case.
The same can be said about the tripod, the bundled one will very likely be one of those 3-inch table top tripods which may also be wobbly. The tripod helps keep the shots stable and also to take advantage of the timer. The serious shutterbug will want to invest in a much taller and more stable tripod.
Most digital cameras have some built in memory but do not count on this to store your photos because the memory size is very small. You will find that the built-in memory easily runs out when taking pictures of 10 mega pixels and above. Invest in a compact flash or secure digital flash card. 4 Gb will give you good enough storage when taking high mega pixel shots. But if you are an avid clicker, consider getting at least a 16 Gb card.
One of the most overlooked accessories is by far the battery. Most lower priced cameras will come bundled with a no-name battery which is almost tantamount to no reliability. People will tell you that these batteries should last at least a year but do not be surprised if these kinds of batteries breaks down in less than a year. The good news is that these batteries have model numbers and you can find a suitable replacement from a reputable manufacturer.
Just like traditional cameras, there are digital cameras that allow additional lenses to be attached or completely changeable. Three basic lens types are:
It also helps to talk to your relatives or friends who have already owned a digital camera for some time. Their input plus the tips that you have just read will go a long way in helping you invest in a gadget that will give you hours of fun and capture moments that you will cherish.
The author is an owner of a cheap digital camera. It is so cheap, the battery actually is half the price of the camera. Avoid the kind of fate he suffered. Learn from experienced users and share your |
Monday, May 11, 2009
Is Photography becoming too technical?
Having started my "career" in photography at the tender age of 13, way back in 1980, I remember thinking that things seemed so complicated to
start with.
F-Stops, shutter speeds, ASA (ISO) ratings, double exposures, depth of field and the "wet" darkroom all took a little getting used to,
although it was still great fun.
Nowadays, as a full time professional photographer, I spend quite a bit of time online and in photography forums
researching digital cameras, lenses, software and new techniques and I am constantly bewildered by the amount of sometimes unnecessary technical
jargon.
I feel for any newbies to digital photography as there seems to be added pressure to be able to manipulate your images beyond
recognition before they are deemed as "quality".
Books and websites are now packed out with technical data, facts and figures that are really not
so important when starting out. It is all too easy to become confused and put off by thinking that you need to know all this...you don't, not for now at least!
It all started when digital technology hit the mainstream buying public and even more so when Digital SLR's became more affordable to
the masses.
Everywhere I go now I see arguments and discussions for;
* The amount of mega-pixels necessary to get a good
shot.
* Noise (or grain) issues from digital sensors.
* Dynamic range is a favourite, probably because using the term sounds like you
know your onions!
* Purple fringing or chromatic aberrations.
* The "crop factor" of a camera's sensor.
* Menu layout, buffer and start up
times, image stabilisation...the list goes on.
What many people need to realise is that all of the above is simply irrelevant when beginning as a
photographer. It is still mostly irrelevant as you progress too, and you only really need to fully understand these things if you intend to sell your images or
services.
The point of my ramblings is to let people know that all you need to do is this;
* Understand the basic principles of photography.
Exposure, composition and lighting.
* Know how to upload and "develop" your images digitally using even basic software, to the point where they
resemble how it would have looked if your old film lab had done the job.
* Print, show online via a website or email to friends, family or clients.
*
And simply enjoy yourself.
If you can put a camera to your eye, see a good picture and know how to capture it as you see it, you are half
way there.
As testimony to much the above, most of the large professional stock libraries in the world only accept original, unsharpened, un-
manipulated images...no fancy stuff.
(Smaller designer-based stock agencies including Microstock companies are partial to both original photographic files right up to heavily
manipulated digital images).
All you need to do is take your Digital SLR camera, lenses and accessories and go out and have fun. Enjoy getting
"back to basics" and learning the true art of photography and worry about the rest later.
The following may be of use to those who have just
bought or about to buy a new DSLR (Digital SLR). IT will hold you by the hand and walk you through all the need to know areas of digital photography at
grass roots level.
http://www.all-things-photography.com/advanced-photography-books-for-beginners-and-amateur-
photographers.html
All the best and good luck with this fantastic hobby!
Nick Stubbs
www.panphotography.com
About the Author
Nick is a professional,
qualified photographer for more than 24 years specialising in stock, wedding, people and commercial photography. He was recently awarded the title of
"Commercial Photographer of the Year 2005" by the S.W.P.P & B.P.P.A. (Society of Wedding and Portrait Photographers and British
Professional Photographers Association)
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